Alison D. Stegert

Welcome to my Victoriana Series, in which I will dive into the treasure trove of 19^th– century objects, outfits, places and people mentioned in Her Majesty’s League of Remarkable Young Ladies.

First up is a look at Victorian ladies’ fashion, specifically an accessory called the Chatelaine (SHAT-uh-lane or /ˈʃætəleɪn/). Clipped or pinned to a lady’s waistband, this clever and attractive accessory provided a woman a hands-free way to carry useful items and tools around the house or on her outings.

The Chatelaine

Equipages – or dainty tools – were hooked to the chatelaine’s sturdy chains. What things did ladies clip to their chatelaines in the nineteenth century?

• Keys
• a watch
• a buttonhook (for fastening the buttons on old fashioned boots!)
• a tiny bottle called a vinaigrette to hold smelling salts (for recovering from fainting) or perfume (to mask the stench of the mucky streets)
• a tiny notepad and pencil
• scissors
• a thimble and a needle case
• a coin purse

Here are three examples of chatelaines from different eras.

The chatelaine was like a Swiss Army knife for stylish but practical Victorian ladies. Some chatelaines were plain and strictly functional, while others were more for their wow-factor – elaborately decorated with enamel or jewels.

The word châtelaine is an old-fashioned French term for the woman in charge of a large household. Often, this woman of the house could be identified by the large ring of house keys on her belt.

The Victorian chatelaine could be customised to fit the needs and interests of the lady wearing it. For example, a young lady attending a ball might use an equipage called a Carte de Bal, which was a tiny notepad on which her suitors could write their names to secure a dance with her. If a lady enjoyed embroidery, her equipages would include a needle case, scissors, a thimble and measuring tape. A nurse might carry a watch and notebook, while a housekeeper would clip on a corkscrew and a ring of keys.

Build Your Own Chatelaine

Here’s my favourite chatelaine pin. Isn’t it gorgeous?

Let’s call him Winkie.

If I could design a chatelaine to wear, I’d shape the pin like a mushroom – the magical kind, of course. (And yes please to red enamel with white spots!) My equipages would include a tiny notebook and pencil for jotting down story ideas. There’d be a purse, but not to hold coins. Instead, I’d stuff it with tasty treats for my dogs. I’d also invent a much-needed equipage to manage all my eyeglasses!

What about you? If you could design a chatelaine that was uniquely yours, what would shape would your pin be? What equipages would you include?

Happy Update – My Own Chatelaine

I’m so excited to show you my chatelaine. I even managed to find a “Winkie” octopus clasp. This is a costume piece, so no precious metals or expensive price tag.

My equipages mirror Winifred’s, but sadly, mine are not interlocking like hers. I have added a whistle and a notepad to this collection, which includes (left to right): a magnifying glass, a vial, a hinged bobble for holding wax, a pencil, a whistle, a key, a ruler, a needle case, a screw driver, and pocket watch.

If you’d like a chatelaine of your own, I can recommend my supplier, the lovely Jane from Beadoodads, an Etsy store. Check her out, and be sure to tell her Winifred Weatherby (and Ali) sent you!

Get Your Copy

(And thank you for the support!)

Image Credits

• Image of Chatelaine: National Gallery of Art, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Images in slideshow: http://www.metmuseum.org/, https://www.cooperhewitt.org, and https://www.artic.edu/
• Image of Winifred Weatherby by Micaela Alcaino, © 2023.
• Image of Octopus Chatelaine – Gorham Manufacturing Company, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
• Image of Octopus with equipages – https://mohistory.org/
• Thanks to picryl.com, an awesome resource for finding public domain images.